My Fujifilm Jpeg Settings – Jamiechanchravels

Due to the popularity of my publication by changing Raw to JPEG for my images, I thought it is better to create one where you can see my Fujifilm Jpeg configuration. These are very similar to using presets in Lightroom, but it is applying them to the image there and then. The next configuration are what I use every day and developed during my time in Singapore, Chiang Mai and Bangkok. At first, in Singapore, it wasn’t so good. I kept changing my mind about how a photo should be seen, so I kept changing the JPEG profiles. However, at the time of my last stop at Bangkok, I was much more established. Now, I choose the configuration and I leave it. However, I cannot take the complete credit. My JPEG configurations of Fujifilm were created through the investigation of other Fujifilm shooters; more markedly Kevin Mullins and Ritchie Roesch. While Kevin focuses on weddings and ritchie on Emulating classic film looksI thought I would see how JPEG goes for travel photography.

Before continuing, you may want to consult an updated example of my JPEG configuration in action. I took my camera to take a turn around Edinburgh and was on the moon with how the photos were!

***UPDATE***

I have a new publication with my updated Fujifilm JPEG configuration by 2021, which you can see well here.

Configure the camera

Before entering each of my personalized configurations, it is worth mentioning how I configured my Fujifilm X-T2 Up to make JPEGS easier. With RAW, you get a lot of flexibility when it comes to postprocessing yet, with JPEG, almost everything has to be perfect at the time you press the shutter. I like the X-T2 for this, since everything is easily accessible, especially when it comes to exposure compensation. I would hate to try this with a different brand. I am a great believer to let the camera do most of the work for me. Many will probably not agree with me, but I find it much easier to concentrate on capturing images than to constantly play with the configuration. While I have configured the entire camera for the way I shoot, these are the main ones that will help you get better JPEG.

Opening priority

Opening priority shot almost all the time. Unless there are exceptional circumstances, for example, nocturnal urban landscapes or panels, which require the shutter speed manually, just let the camera do work for me. You will want to control the depth of the field yourself and this is exactly what allows opening priority. All I have to do is choose my desired opening (often between open YF/8) and the camera chooses the shutter speed. When the shutter speed becomes too slow, my ISO car establishes to intervene to help.

Auto iso

I am perfectly happy with the fixed images in High ISO and, if the situation requires it, I have no problem uploading up to 12,800. While I do not shoot professionally, I prefer to endure the noise and have a usable image than one that comes out blurred. Therefore, I use the following auto ISO configuration:

I find that a minimum shutter speed of 1/125 is sufficient to maintain crisp images and the camera will increase the ISO if the shutter speed falls below that figure.

Exposure compensation

To obtain the image correctly exposed in the camera, I find that I often established the exposure compensation in +1 or, sometimes, even +2. This is where the Electronic View Finder (EVF) is useful: you can see exactly how the JPEG will see regardless of what configuration changes. Mirrorless is the way to follow, I tell you! I also added the histogram to the EVF that tells me if an image is correctly exposed or not. However, instead of simply turning the exhibition dial, I have it configured in C all the time. Then I configured the command dial at the front of my camera to adjust the exposure compensation; In this way, you get up to 5 stops instead of 3. It is not that I really need 5, but in reality it seems much faster to use the command dial.

My Fujifilm Jpeg configuration

To create your own JPEG configuration, go to edit/save the personalized configuration in section IQ of the menu. From here you can save seven different settings, all for different scenarios if you wish. To make it even easier to change between configurations, I changed my FN5 button to ‘Select personalized configuration’. With the camera in my eye, I can change in a simple and very easy way.

Astia Travel

This is the one that uses almost all the time; For daily images when exploring, as well as my food outlets. Astia is such a versatile film simulation. I love it so much that I used Astia when I had prejudices from VSCO. To get more sample images, be sure to see my publication in Astia de Fujifilm.

Urban chrome

Ah classic Chrome. The simulation of the film of the gods. I think it is the fujifilm version of a very popular Kodak movie. This is what I change for street photography or if it begins to rain. The combination of classic chrome and reflexes in the rain is simply beautiful; in a dirty way.

• Dr Auto

• FS Classic Chrome

• Grain

• WB Auto +1 Network

• Highlighted 0

• Shadow +2

• Color +3

• Sharpness +3

• NR -3

You can see more examples of my classic Chrome scene here.

Velvia ls

For landscapes, Velvia often uses, which really highlights the color in each scene. I also used this in Little India in Singapore, where bright colors could not have been captured in another way. However, I am not using this too much.

• Dr Auto

• FS Velvia

• Grain

• WB Auto +1 Network

• The highlight -1

• Shadow +3

• Color +4

• Sharpness +2

• NR -1

Port Pro

I owe this to Kevin Mullins; It is a really soft and subtle environment used for portraits. I did not shoot so many portraits at all, but I discovered that it worked well to capture details in a Bangkok hotel. However, when I have used it for a portrait, it is wonders. I love the aspect that this gives and I hope I use it more once you buy 56 mm f/1.2.